Aspire Nautilus 2 flooded coil upon refill

[laurentiu]

Hi
I've got this kit and I'm using it with the 0.7 ohm coil.
At the beginning it was great, although I'm still a little clumsy as I just started vaping.
Since the beginning I have a problem with the refill. I'm closing the airflow, taking off the cap, refilling till the line just below the screw lines, putting back the cap and opening the airflow at 2 holes. Every time the coil is flooded, line in the center of it, where the cotton and the actual coil is, and I just can't vape until I use thin paper towel sticks to soak all the juice inside. If I try to vape w/o doing this I get some bubble sound, eventually some hot juice spitted.
This happened also with the original installed coil.
Now I'm at the second replacement coil and besides this, which I think is cause of me not knowing how to refill it properly, I get crackles, more spits and much sweet taste besides bubbles.
This I think is cause some not genuine or not well made coils.
With the original coil I set it at 14W, although I know it's a 18W-23W coil. I prefer lowering things a little bit cause of the formaldehyde that is formed at higher powers. With the replacement coils I can't vape under 19W-20W as it's terrible.
So, what can I do? I'm using it for two weeks and I started to do so in order to quit ordinary smoking. I really don't wanna be disappointed about this and wanna carry on. I even searched for NET liquids an currently vape Drake's Havana in order to keep things as natural and safe as it can be.
HELP!

PS: If this should have been posted to Aspire Zelos 50W 2.0 kit please move it or tell me to post it there.

 

[Baditude]

What you appear to be experiencing is flooded coils. There are several causes for a flooded coil. The trick is to avoid flooding.

Clearomizer Troubleshooting and Tips:

"Flooding" is a common occurrence in e-cigarettes. The definition of flooding is getting juice into the air passage of the tank. This can include any point between the mouth piece and the very bottom part that connects to the battery. Each tank has holes in that air passage, where the wicks passthrough. This is required for the device to work properly. Unfortunately, this opens up the possibility for flooding. The trick with flooding, is knowing how to avoid it. I’ll explain a little more, but a few common causes for flooding a tank include: improper filling, over filling, pulling too hard when hitting the device, and the temperature can even play a role and/or damage.

"Dry" or "burnt" hits are also a common occurrence in e-cigarettes. This happens when an inadequate quantity of e-liquid reaches the coil. This can occur from using an e-liquid which is too thick for a tank, intake holes for the e-liquid being inadequate, or using a bad wick or coil. Doing "primer puffs", which is taking a puff or two without power on, may eliminate this phenomenon.

Before I get into the explanation, let me explain how an e-cig works a little more in depth. Nearly every tank has a wick that is used to absorb the juice in the tank. This wick cuts through the air passage. Each wick has a piece of wire that wraps around it in a coil. When you activate the button on the battery, you send electricity through the wire. As the wire heats up, it vaporizes the juice that is in the wick.

Improper Filling: When filling your tank, you have to be careful not to get juice into the center tube of the tank. This center tube is the air passage. When you take a draw, air comes from the bottom of the tank, through the air passage and into your mouth. If you get juice into this passage way, your tank is flooded.

Over Filling: If you over fill a tank (specifically a top coil like the ones that come with the starter kits and gift boxes), the wicks can become over saturated and just like a rain cloud, they will leak into the air passage. Once this happens, you have a flooded tank.

Pulling Too Hard: As I mentioned the wicks absorb the juice in the tank. As you pull on the device, you cause a vacuum effect that pulls juice into the wicks. If you pull too hard, you can pull in more juice then the coil can vaporize. If this happens, the juice leaks into the air passage and you have a flooded tank. Solution: take gentler draws.

Temperature: E-Juice is a viscous liquid. Which means that as it warms up, it will thin out. And in the opposite form, it will thicken when it gets cold. When it thins, it is more difficult for the wicks to hold back the thin juice. This usually causes the wicks to over saturate and, you guessed it, it will leak into the air passage and you have a flooded tank.

Damage: There are o-rings and gaskets used that can wear out with usage. If certain ones fail or get lost, leaking will occur, in turn flooding the air passage and causing you to have a flooded tank. Other than accidentally losing something, damage can occur when its carried in a purse or a pocket or by over tightening the tank to the battery. Over tightening is a very common cause of leaking due to the damage it creates.

Why does my Tank Leak and what can I do about it? | E-Cigarette Forum

 

[laurentiu]

Thanks for your response, but this seems to be rather be a general information.
I was specific about the way i refill the tank. My problem is that with my method of refilling, even before vaping just after the refill was done, the coil is already flooded. So, i open it with airflow closed, make the refill properly, not over filling it, i close it, open airflow and it’s already flooded. If i try to vape before i clean the center of the coil with paper towel, it’s bubbling an sometimes spitting.
This is my main concern.
As i wrote, i know about the fake coils, but how can i know if what i bought is genuine or not?
I mean, i’m getting them from a local supplier, by piece, and he showed me the package which seems original. It has the hologram and codes.
Anyway, still looking for resolution.

 

[My Batt Hurts]

Hi - With the N2, I do likewise and close off the airflow before adding liquid. What makes the difference for me is replacing the top cap _really_ slowly. When you think it's sealed, some users recommend inverting the tank for the last couple of turns. Avoid over-tightening it. One more - when the tank's empty, take a minute to check the coil's securely screwed into the base. It can work loose over time and mess things up (check the AFC for signs of liquid).

No drops/falls or anything? I dropped an N2 and it took weeks to fail miserably - probably o-ring damage.

How thin is your liquid? I can get away with 70% PG, but 50/50 works well and there's rarely any gurgle.

 

[Mordacai]

laurentiu, I've noticed that you have to push down the top of the Nautilus 2S tank. That may be causing issues as it may increase pressure in the tank and force liquid into the coil.

Also PG (Propylene Glycol) content may be too high, therefore the liquid is too thin. A higher VG (Vegetable Glycerine) content may help.

I've looked online for you and found out that Drake's do make 70% VG/30% PG shortfills with no Nicotine, but that can be resolved with Nicotine Shots. It may be worth a try.

 

[Janusz]

Check o-ring on coil. If you over tighten coil it can be damaged/flattened... if you have old used coils you can take off this o-ring and replace on new coil... some batches of coils can have bad o-rings. Idea of flipping tank upside down for the last two turns is also good.

 

[Baditude]

Thanks for your response, but this seems to be rather be a general information...Anyway, still looking for resolution.

I don't know how long you've been vaping, as this is your first post on this forum and you didn't include how long you've been vaping.

The other factor in my above post was taking too strong of a draw could cause flooding. I don't know if you ignored this point? If I am correct, the Nautilus 2 is a MTL tank which generally means a gentler draw is recommended than a stronger draw like on a DTL tank.

The other suggestions offered by other posters seem legit as well.

 

[laurentiu]

WOW!
I didn’t expected so much implication so shortly.
So, it’s a N2 not N2S tank so nothing to push.
Liquid is 70%VG so that’s checked too.
I’ve tried the inverted method and seems to work, at least at this first try.
I’ve been vaping for two weeks but read a lot about what to do to make the right thing.
Also, guys from the shop helped by trying to show me some “how to”s.
I think the problem was that i’ve been using it at a lower power, 14W instead of 18W-23W.
Now i’m concerned about another thing; it produces about 3,7V; isn’t this to high and risky about formaldehyde.
I mean, as i said, i’m trying to replace smoking with vaping, not necessarily for the vape itself, although i really like it, but to reduce as much as possible the toxins i was inhaling. And i know that at 5V the volume of formaldehyde is 15x more than on a regular smoke (those tests aren’t 100% clear, i don’t really know what compound generates formaldehyde for example and if that compound is include in my juice).

As a conclusion, i think you guys solved the flooding but only if i maximize the power. So, could the flooding be affected by this smaller power, and do you know what compounds are generating formaldehyde and at which voltage?
I’m going to stick to NET, although here only Drake’s is available and i don’t know if this is nearly the best, or even a good NET liquid.

Thanks all of you for the support.

 

[Baditude]

As a conclusion, i think you guys solved the flooding but only if i maximize the power. So, could the flooding be affected by this smaller power, and do you know what compounds are generating formaldehyde and at which voltage?

Yes, theoretically lower wattage could cause flooding. Coils have a recommended wattage range. Using too little power for your specific coil could prevent the e-liquid from vaporizing completely and what is left over remains in liquid form and finds its way into the air chamber...resulting in flooding.

I can't deliver a source to link to here, but formaldehyde is not typically created at the wattage range that you are using. It may occur in high wattage sub-ohm atomizers. Give me a few minutes...

 

[Mordacai]

laurentiu, as Baditude has said. No problems with formaldehyde at those wattages.

If you're really concerned about it though, look into TCR/TC/Temperature vaping for your next mod.

 

[laurentiu]

Well, i have this E-cigarettes can emit formaldehyde at high levels under conditions that have been reported to be non-averse to users
They talk about voltage, not watts. And voltage is different at same wattage depending on the coil.
So i’ve tried the 1.8ohm and it starts at 4,2volts which is something below 10watts and delivers very low clouds and even lower flavor. If i take it to 6volts things are a little better but 6volts in that article means poison.
I’m now set at 19w which is burning the coil at 3,7v. I don’t know if it generates formaldehyde but i’m sticking with this until newer notices.

 

[laurentiu]

laurentiu, as Baditude has said. No problems with formaldehyde at those wattages.

If you're really concerned about it though, look into TCR/TC/Temperature vaping for your next mod.

This MOD can take TC, i think, but guys at the shop, everyone, said that i should stick to wattage mode.

 

[Baditude]

Does ecig vapour contain thousands of toxins?

 

[Baditude]

This MOD can take TC, i think, but guys at the shop, everyone, said that i should stick to wattage mode.

Possibly because you are a newer vaper. TC is a little more advanced and sometimes fiddly to set up just right. Also TC requires that the coils be of a certain wire type. I'm not sure what wire your coils are and if they would be TC compatible.

 

[My Batt Hurts]

The nautilus coils need wattage/power mode. They don't support TC.

 

[Baditude]

The nautilus coils need wattage/power mode. They don't support TC.

Bingo!

 

[wackygt]

Just to add to the flooded coil stuff. I started vaping on a Nautilus 2 on the original Zelos. Flooding the coil for me was caused by over filling and by pulling too hard. Once I figured that out I never had the issue again.

I was using the 0.7 coil and was vaping at 20 watts. If I dropped to say 14 watts, then I got the gurgling.

As for toxins.......after all the nasty stuff your body got from cigarettes, there is nothing I have seen associated with vaping that is even remotely as toxic as smoking. And that includes all the BS anti vaping propaganda!

 

[Topwater Elvis]

Thanks for your response, but this seems to be rather be a general information.
I was specific about the way i refill the tank. My problem is that with my method of refilling, even before vaping just after the refill was done, the coil is already flooded. So, i open it with airflow closed, make the refill properly, not over filling it, i close it, open airflow and it’s already flooded. If i try to vape before i clean the center of the coil with paper towel, it’s bubbling an sometimes spitting.
This is my main concern.
As i wrote, i know about the fake coils, but how can i know if what i bought is genuine or not?
I mean, i’m getting them from a local supplier, by piece, and he showed me the package which seems original. It has the hologram and codes.
Anyway, still looking for resolution.

There are as many fake/knockoff/counterfeit nautilus heads on the market as authentic.
The only way to know for sure is to buy a box of 5, sealed, then check the scratch off authenticity code using Aspires site, if it has been checked even once before they are fake. Each code is unique.
Buying heads per piece/individually there is no way.

 

[Mordacai]

Carbonyl Compounds Generated from Electronic Cigarettes

 

[Mordacai]

Tests performed using a C4E Clearomiser being artificially vaped at levels that a human would find unpleasant and uncomfortable, seem to cause high formaldehyde levels.

The Japanese study posted above proved that not all devices are created equal, and should be investigated further. As results varied so much.