30AWG Wire for Coil Rebuild

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cramptholomew

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Hi all,
Our phone/electronics guy had an extra spool of 30AWG wire wrapping wire, and I'm wondering (without digging through threads) if it's acceptable for rebuilding my clearo coil heads. I also have a spool of cotton butcher's twine at home, and am wondering about using that for wicks. Anyone tried that before? Any and all info is greatly appreciated.

THANKS!
 

Jazzi Mike

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Yes, 30 AWG is fine. The issue you might run into, depending on what setup you Re using, is that 30 may not get the resistance you need. 32 is the standard and the lower gauge you go, the less resistance per foot. However, you still should be able to get 2 ohms or so pretty comfortably. Watch videos about it and make sure you have something to check your resistance before you fire it.

EDIT: I didn't even think that it may not be resistance wire. If it is not, definitely do not use it.
 
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RTYPE11

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no! wrapping wire is a conducting wire used for breadboards to simulate printed cicuit boards or small temporary electrical projects, it will not heat up (significantly) when you pass current through it. you need resistance wire, like the nichrome or kanthal in your toaster or toaster oven or space heater. (do not take your toaster apart please)
 

Coastal Cowboy

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Be careful referring to "Kanthal" as Kanthal is a brand, not a wire type. Kanthal makes wire for both conductivity and resistance applications, including a Nickel-Chromium alloy we refer to as "Nichrome."

Nichrome does not solder. Conductive wire almost always does.

Take Aglet's advice. Don't risk it.
 

C Heise

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RTD Vapor sells a non resistance 32g wire.... I haven't tried it but I don't think they'd sell a non-resistance wire if it didn't work.
Wick and Wire : 100 ft Non-Resistance 32
I would check the resistance with an ohm meter. You can get one almost any big box or hardware store. It's a handy tool to have. If you could get a 2 ohm coil out of it without having to use half a mile, it should work. Myself, I'd stick with A-1 and Ni-Chrome. I wouldn't want to recoil every few days because the coil is burning out.

Here's a link to the rest of their wire.
RA Wick & Wire
 

C Heise

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UncleChuck

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RTD Vapor sells a non resistance 32g wire.... I haven't tried it but I don't think they'd sell a non-resistance wire if it didn't work.
Wick and Wire : 100 ft Non-Resistance 32
I would check the resistance with an ohm meter. You can get one almost any big box or hardware store. It's a handy tool to have. If you could get a 2 ohm coil out of it without having to use half a mile, it should work. Myself, I'd stick with A-1 and Ni-Chrome. I wouldn't want to recoil every few days because the coil is burning out.

Here's a link to the rest of their wire.
RA Wick & Wire

"Non-resistance" wire is used to attach our resistance wire (heating coil) to the terminals on some RBAs. It is not being sold for use as coil material, but for attaching a proper coil to the device.

The resistance of "non-resistance" wire is, well, very low. If you make a .01 ohm coil you are pulling over 300 amps. Well, you won't be pulling 300 amps, because either the coil will pop, your switch will fry, or your battery will overheat instantly and vent. For reference purposes even the high-powered sub-ohm setups some people run rarely pull over 10amps. Compared to 300. The highest current batt on the market is 30amp.

While there are other wire materials out there that could potentially work, using normal wire whos purpose is to conduct current, not heat up, is a horrible idea. We need the resistance of the wire to cause the heating of the coil instead of destroying the battery or device.
 

Coastal Cowboy

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"Non-resistance" wire is used to attach our resistance wire (heating coil) to the terminals on some RBAs. It is not being sold for use as coil material, but for attaching a proper coil to the device.

The scary thing is, the site linked above doesn't specify this. :ohmy:

The resistance of "non-resistance" wire is, well, very low. If you make a .01 ohm coil you are pulling over 300 amps. Well, you won't be pulling 300 amps, because either the coil will pop, your switch will fry, or your battery will overheat instantly and vent. For reference purposes even the high-powered sub-ohm setups some people run rarely pull over 10amps. Compared to 300. The highest current batt on the market is 30amp.

While there are other wire materials out there that could potentially work, using normal wire whos purpose is to conduct current, not heat up, is a horrible idea. We need the resistance of the wire to cause the heating of the coil instead of destroying the battery or device.

If I'm recalling my training properly (I used to blow things up for Uncle Sam a long time ago), a copper or nickel 30 AWG conductor has resistance of about 3 ohms per meter. So, in order to get a coil that registered 2.5 on your multimeter you'd need to wrap about 542,463 times, or something right?
 

Hidden Dragon

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Anyone know what kind of shipping Temco uses? AKA, how long will it take to get to me on the east coast? :)

I ordered my wire from Temco on the 8th of this month (late), I received my invoice on the 9th. it shipped on the 11th and I had it on the 13th. My order included round and flat(ribbon) wire and one of them said they had to make it to order so it would be within 7 days. So in all a little under a week but for $25, I have enough wire to build coils for at least 6-9 months if not longer!!
 

C Heise

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"Non-resistance" wire is used to attach our resistance wire (heating coil) to the terminals on some RBAs. It is not being sold for use as coil material, but for attaching a proper coil to the device.

The resistance of "non-resistance" wire is, well, very low. If you make a .01 ohm coil you are pulling over 300 amps. Well, you won't be pulling 300 amps, because either the coil will pop, your switch will fry, or your battery will overheat instantly and vent. For reference purposes even the high-powered sub-ohm setups some people run rarely pull over 10amps. Compared to 300. The highest current batt on the market is 30amp.

While there are other wire materials out there that could potentially work, using normal wire whos purpose is to conduct current, not heat up, is a horrible idea. We need the resistance of the wire to cause the heating of the coil instead of destroying the battery or device.

Good to know. Also why I said
I would check the resistance with an ohm meter. If you could get a 2 ohm coil out of it without having to use half a mile, it should work.
After checking it, a person could easily figure out that 67cm of wire is not going to work to make a coil.
 
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