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<blockquote data-quote="bombastinator2" data-source="post: 23681181" data-attributes="member: 414823"><p>Your problem may not have been the battery but the diaphragm switch. Though those are commonly in the battery. Ones that look like cigarettes are called “cigalikes”. They tend to be mechs and have very small batteries. They can be automatic or manual switched. The ones that smoke just like a cigarette are auto switched. The biggest issue the automatics tend to have is the switch works off a vacuum diaphragm and if it gets juice in it there can be problems. The best one I ever used was not normally sold in the U.S. it had a charging case to deal with the small battery, and the batteries had a hole through the center to get the vacuum inlet at what would be the “hot end” on a cigarette so they didn’t clog as much and were easier to clear when they did. I’m forgetting the name but I’ve got one somewhere. I’ll post it when I find it. Iirc blu was an auto switched cigalike that worked much like a cigarette except that it glowed blue not orange. Iirc they are still around. Most people eventually wound up with non mech manuals that had bigger batteries which were swappable and looked like boxes with a nipple on the end.</p><p></p><p>A way to clear an auto cigalike clog that sometimes works is use very high molarity alcohol which both evaporates and doesn’t conduct electricity. You put the battery with the clogged switch in the alcohol for a bit to dissolve the clog, then pull it out and wait a day or two for the alcohol to evaporate away. Sometimes works. I used Wisconsin everclear (Wisconsin had a law allowing higher proof alcohol) because it was nearly pure ethyl alcohol and didn’t have that stuff in it that makes you sick if you drink it that they put in rubbing alcohol. COVID made high molarity alcohol fairly easy to get though. You may not be able to get Everclear of high enough proof (every state is different and they’ll sell it to you anyway, the proof will just be lower) in which case your best bet is probably rubbing alcohol. For the ones with the hole in the end you could just set it end down in a pool of the stuff and the alcohol would be dragged up the tube through capillary action. Capillary action is the bugbear of those things becaus all the holes and parts are very small and the result is capillary action will literally suck in liquid. Now I’m wondering if 20/80 gasohol would work. Gasoline has the same properties and the 80% alcohol is VERY high proof. Close to 200. So very little water in the stuff. Probably make the thing taste like gas though. I dunno. The cheapest way to do things is of course a rebuildable, so rta, rba, or rdta (though I haven’t really figured out what makes those different from RTAs) which is -the-box-with-the-bit-on-top. Lately the form factor of autos has switched to things that look more like a highlighter marker</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="bombastinator2, post: 23681181, member: 414823"] Your problem may not have been the battery but the diaphragm switch. Though those are commonly in the battery. Ones that look like cigarettes are called “cigalikes”. They tend to be mechs and have very small batteries. They can be automatic or manual switched. The ones that smoke just like a cigarette are auto switched. The biggest issue the automatics tend to have is the switch works off a vacuum diaphragm and if it gets juice in it there can be problems. The best one I ever used was not normally sold in the U.S. it had a charging case to deal with the small battery, and the batteries had a hole through the center to get the vacuum inlet at what would be the “hot end” on a cigarette so they didn’t clog as much and were easier to clear when they did. I’m forgetting the name but I’ve got one somewhere. I’ll post it when I find it. Iirc blu was an auto switched cigalike that worked much like a cigarette except that it glowed blue not orange. Iirc they are still around. Most people eventually wound up with non mech manuals that had bigger batteries which were swappable and looked like boxes with a nipple on the end. A way to clear an auto cigalike clog that sometimes works is use very high molarity alcohol which both evaporates and doesn’t conduct electricity. You put the battery with the clogged switch in the alcohol for a bit to dissolve the clog, then pull it out and wait a day or two for the alcohol to evaporate away. Sometimes works. I used Wisconsin everclear (Wisconsin had a law allowing higher proof alcohol) because it was nearly pure ethyl alcohol and didn’t have that stuff in it that makes you sick if you drink it that they put in rubbing alcohol. COVID made high molarity alcohol fairly easy to get though. You may not be able to get Everclear of high enough proof (every state is different and they’ll sell it to you anyway, the proof will just be lower) in which case your best bet is probably rubbing alcohol. For the ones with the hole in the end you could just set it end down in a pool of the stuff and the alcohol would be dragged up the tube through capillary action. Capillary action is the bugbear of those things becaus all the holes and parts are very small and the result is capillary action will literally suck in liquid. Now I’m wondering if 20/80 gasohol would work. Gasoline has the same properties and the 80% alcohol is VERY high proof. Close to 200. So very little water in the stuff. Probably make the thing taste like gas though. I dunno. The cheapest way to do things is of course a rebuildable, so rta, rba, or rdta (though I haven’t really figured out what makes those different from RTAs) which is -the-box-with-the-bit-on-top. Lately the form factor of autos has switched to things that look more like a highlighter marker [/QUOTE]
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